Types of Exfoliating Treatments: How Do Chemical Peels Work and What's the Recovery Like?

Chemical peels are one of the treatments considered when the skin feels like it has thickened dead skin cell buildup or an uneven texture. They are described as a method of applying acidic substances to the skin to induce controlled damage to the epidermis and upper dermis, a process said to trigger the shedding of dead skin cells and the rearrangement of skin structure.

However, since the scope of effects, downtime, and potential side effects can vary greatly depending on the depth of the peel and the ingredients used, it is necessary to go through a process of checking with a specialist for a method suited to your skin condition, rather than approaching it simply with the goal of 'removing dead skin cells.'

The Principle Behind Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are understood as a method of applying acidic substances to intentionally give the skin controlled stimulation. During this process, cytokines and inflammatory mediators are released, which is said to lead to epidermal remodeling, dermal collagen production, rearrangement of structural elements, and increased dermal volume.

Simply put, this can be viewed as a mechanism that uses corrosive substances to artificially speed up the rate of skin cell shedding, or that induces remodeling by inflicting controlled damage on the skin. However, the degree and outcome of these reactions can vary depending on the concentration of the ingredients used, the depth of the procedure, and individual skin condition.

Types According to Peel Depth

Superficial peels work within the epidermis, using substances such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid, pyruvic acid, and Jessner's solution. They are described as potentially helpful for improving mild photoaging, pigmentation irregularities, and acne-related skin texture, and are known to involve relatively little downtime.

Medium-depth peels use trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or high-concentration glycolic acid to reach the middle to outer layers of the skin, and are said to be somewhat more effective at removing damaged keratinocytes.

Deep peels are described as a method using phenol or high-concentration trichloroacetic acid to fully penetrate to the middle layer of the skin. As the depth increases, the recovery period and the range of side effects requiring management tend to increase as well.

Progress, Downtime, and Potential Side Effects

According to materials from the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), superficial peels involve minimal downtime, while medium and deep peels may require about 2 to 3 weeks for recovery. This can vary depending on individual skin condition and peel intensity.

It is generally reported that redness, dryness, irritation or a burning sensation, and mild swelling may occur. In rare cases, changes in skin color (hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation) may occur, and this tends to be reported relatively more often in darker skin tones. There is also rare mention of the possibility of scarring, so thorough consultation about medical history and skin condition before the procedure is recommended.

For those with a history of herpes simplex, it is known that recurrence may occur after treatment, so it is necessary to be sure to inform the medical provider of any related history beforehand.

Home Care During the Recovery Period After Treatment

Immediately after a peel treatment, it is known that the stratum corneum temporarily thins, weakening the skin barrier function and going through a period of increased sensitivity to external stimuli. During this time, it is explained that sun protection is important, along with avoiding irritating ingredients, and focusing on soothing and moisturizing care.

During the recovery period, it is recommended to avoid excessive exfoliation or cleansing that involves friction, and to manage the skin with minimal irritation so that it can restore its barrier on its own.

Home Care Determines Post-Treatment Recovery

After a chemical peel, the stratum corneum may be thinner and more sensitive to external stimuli, so a two-step approach can be helpful: using products focused on soothing and barrier care immediately after the procedure, followed by deep moisturizing care during the recovery period. ABJU Cream is a 2-STEP product designed with this flow in mind—STEP1 Ultra Cera-Rich is designed for soothing and barrier care right after the procedure, while STEP2 Hydro Re-Boosting is designed for deep moisturizing care during the recovery period. However, since the condition of the treated area and recovery speed vary by individual, it is necessary to consult with the medical provider who performed the procedure regarding the timing and method of product use.

Medically reviewed by 아비쥬의원 의료진. (September 10, 2026)